Nā Pali Coast from Waimea Canyon, Kaua’i

Photo’s are here or you can just click on the photograph above.

Our vacations don’t usually start with two catastrophic natural disasters threatening to throw a spanner in the works but this vacation looked to be beset with issues less than ideal for our (almost three week return) visit to one of our favorite parts of the world.

On 14th April 2018, roughly five weeks before we were due to land on the balmy shores of the Hawai’ian Islands’ most spectacular island, Kaua’i, the heavens opened depositing 50 inches of rain in 24 hours on the North Shore. The town of Hanalei and everything west of it towards the Nā Pali Coast was flooded, cut off by massive mud and landslides, homes were knocked from their foundations and roads were washed away in a historic flood of almost biblical proportions.

Kaua’i is accustomed to rain. In its centre is the second wettest place on earth – Mount Wai’ale’ale – famous for its Weeping Wall of waterfalls. But this was something quite unprecedented.

We were booked for seven nights to stay 2 miles away from the action in Princeville on the North Shore – primary purpose – to hike the Nā Pali Coast trail again and wile away our days on the spectacularly unique and utterly beautiful Tunnels Beach (amongst others).

I discovered the disaster purely by accident whilst I was poking about in the National Parks website refining my schedule of activities and destinations with which to guide our friends (with whom we were traveling this trip) on a seamless and flawlessly organized visit to our first island, Maui. I had barely thought ahead to the Big Island or Kaua’i.

A few minutes of frantic research later, it became blatantly obvious that we would be marooned (even if we actually made it through the damage and road blocks to the North Shore at all) in Princeville on a bluff whilst the jewels in the crown of the island were washed away, closed indefinitely or off limits due to the risk of leptospirosis.

The upmarket resort of Princeville (perched on a bluff overlooking the coast) was mercifully spared the ravages of the deluge whilst the crème de la crème of the island – Hanalei, Hanalei Valley, the beaches of Ke’e, Tunnels and Lumaha’i, and the Nā Pali coast took the brunt of the rains and their awful aftermath.

Unbelievably, the most spectacular 8 miles of the island was out of bounds for months to come.

Perfect 😦

As Chief Vacation Planner it naturally fell to me to resolve the impending disastrous vacation situation. I managed to keep it quiet from our friends for four days during which time the contract with the rental home owner was re-negotiated from seven days down to three days and I moved us (albeit with heavy heart) to Poipu (the sunny southern part of the island) for four days.

Partial disaster averted – although Geoff and I were absolutely heartbroken that one of our favorite areas in the world had been devastated and that we wouldn’t be able to share it with our friends.

Barely had I had time to re-jig and re-assess our Kaua’i plans when two weeks later – one week before our scheduled departure – Kilauea Volcano on the Big Island erupted. We watched the news with a growing sense of disquiet as a 6.9 earthquake (the largest since 1975) shook the island, dozens of fissures opened up in the southeast of the island and homes were destroyed in Leilani Estates. 174 earthquakes (recorded within a 48 hour time period) later, we were beginning to think that our friends might be jinxed 😉

Of course, Hawai’i is no stranger to volcanic rumblings and Kilauea has been continuously erupting since 1983. Still, I was rather wishing it wasn’t doing it quite so dramatically.

Three years ago when we visited the islands we had relentless sunny days, clear blue skies and an utterly wonderful vacation. This time we were facing floods, mudslides, poisonous “vog” gases, subterranean grumblings, lava spewing towards the ocean and threats of “ballistic projectiles” thrown miles up into the air.

Wonderful 😦 Two out of three islands suffering at the hands of mother nature and the Hawai’ian Islands vacation of our friends’ lifetime hanging in the balance.

With only a few days to go before we headed to the airport, all four of us were holding our breaths waiting for some new biblical-scale disaster – perhaps plagues of locusts descending upon the farms and countryside of upcountry Maui – or maybe a swarm of deadly Irukandji jellyfish washed ashore at Makena Beach 😉

As luck would have it, Maui was just as lovely as it always was – thank goodness!

Each of us had our favorite destinations and Geoff and I re-evaluated our favorite Mauian beach.

Highlights were agreed as follows:

1. Hiking at the dormant Haleakalā Volcano National Park. It is a long, winding road from ground level to the summit – a journey which can take you from temperatures basking in the mid-80’s F at the beach to freezing in the 40’s F, at 10,000 feet. Approaching the summit you are quite literally above the clouds looking down upon the tops of puffy white clouds gathering in the central valley of the island and over the West Maui Mountains. The views over the cinder cones and crater are other-worldly.

Three years ago, Geoff and I hiked the Sliding Sands trail – a test of endurance which we weren’t desperate to repeat. One step down into the crater requires two steps up upon ascent. The air is so thin it is hard to breathe at this altitude – an effect we particularly noticed during the 2-for-1 ascent 😉

On a clear day you can see as far as the Big Island – it is utterly spectacular and absolutely unmissable.

2. West Maui and walking the infinitely more sedate 3.5 mile round trip Kapalua Coastal Trail from Kapalua Bay Beach to D.T. Fleming Beach Park via Oneloa Bay (last time – our favorite beach – and the location of our first (and last) sighting of a surfing dog 😉 ). Crashing waves, rocky lava outcrops, glistening ultramarine waters, posh apartments and beach residences and views towards the island of Molokai. Maximum Mauian payback for minimal effort.

Continuing around the switchbacks on the more verdant north side of the West Maui coast we stopped again to stretch our legs at the far less well-trodden Ohai Loop Trail to marvel at the coastal trail views.

This is the second time we have driven the northern routes 30 and 340. The mountain passes are shrouded in mist and clouds. Squeezing past oncoming vehicles mere inches from the edge of the plunging cliffside switchbacks is no less hairy second time around.

3. Swimming at Makena beach. Three years ago we walked the length of Maui’s most famous beach, I deposited Geoff in the sand to sunbathe and headed into the churning waters to swim. When I returned, he had been thoroughly sandblasted and was digging out grains of sand from his eyelashes and every exposed orifice. It wasn’t the most memorable beach day of our vacation. Hence, Oneloa beach took first place in 2015.

This time, however, Makena beach was perfect – for swimming, wave-jumping, body-surfing and sunbathing. It was so perfect, in fact, that as we were strolling along the beach there was a sudden flurry of activity behind us and we turned to see Geoff whip off his shorts and run head first into the waves in his underpants 😉 There are picture-perfect headlands to the north end of the beach, the teal and ultramarine water is so transparent that you could see clearly into the waves as they formed and rolled and there were views on the horizon over to the islands of Molokini and Lanai.

It was everyone’s favorite beach on Maui 🙂

4. The cutest town award still goes to Paia. There really isn’t any competition. The Paia Fish Market won the award for the best fish and chip and fish taco lunch. Mana Foods deli has the ultimate selection of picnic foods and all would still have been perfect in the world if the related Maka by Mana vegan restaurant was still thriving but it had closed mere months before our arrival.

5. Driving the famed Road to Hana. This is so much more about the journey rather than the destination – particularly as some of the best parts of the road are way past the settlement of Hana itself. Picnic from Mana Foods deli, Paia (the gateway to the Road to Hana) purchased and cool-boxed we started the very long and winding drive. First stop – Twin Falls – disappointingly uninspiring – the top and apparently the most dramatic waterfall was closed due to flooding leaving only its distinctly un-noteworthy little sister open to the public. Happily, as the twists and turns along the rainforest and coastal route continued, we were rewarded with far more memorable waterfalls, water dripping and oozing from the rainforest cliffs, streams running across the roads, waterfalls crashing to the ocean, rainbows and massive ferns and tropical flowers overhanging the cliff sides along the road edge. At Waianapanapa, there is a beautiful black sand beach with jagged lava rocks along the waters edge engulfed in sea shrub plants so intensely green they are almost luminescent. There are fruit and flower stands manned by locals selling freshly picked produce from the roadside and from their gardens. We stopped for vegan ice-cream at Coconut Glen’s – whose slogan is “Made with love and coconuts from the jungles of Maui”. It came with a homemade spoon – a sliver of coconut shell – it was superlative. Our favorite picnic spot of the island was sitting astride a damp log at Koki beach watching the waves rolling in at the headland and the sun glistening on the water. This was followed immediately by the low light of the day trip – the backside of Haleakalā National Park. Oheo Gulch and the Seven Pools are still closed to the public but you can see them if you squint into the distance from the coast trail. Worse – the Waimoku Falls – the previous highlight of the hot, sweaty and slippery Pipiwai trail through a bamboo forest – was also inaccessible due to damage on the trail. This left a trail which was basically a hot, sweaty and slippery trail through a bamboo forest… not quite as appealing as last time 😉

The Road to Hana is very long and makes for a tiring day but it is thoroughly spectacular.

6. Grandma’s Coffee House in Kula remains hands down the best bakery on the island and perhaps the purveyor of the very finest lemon slice on earth. It is fortuitous that it was a long drive from our apartment in Wailea/Makena otherwise I would have failed the bikini test even earlier into our three week trip 😉

7. The easiest and quickest immersion into the interior rainforest world of Maui is undoubtedly Iao Valley State park. Last time Geoff and I were very naughty and we hopped over fencing behind a “Keep Out” sign and hiked up into the wilderness alongside the iconic Iao Needle. It was a brilliant, if hot, sweaty and extraordinarily muddy hike through the undergrowth and across streams into native sacred territory. Under the mature influence of our traveling companions, we refrained from repeating the experience 😉 It is very hard to see the Iao Valley in perfect blue-sky conditions. The West Maui Mountains are shrouded in thick cloud 95% of the time. We were passing the mountains en route to another part of the island when I glanced over into the cloud and thought I spied an opening roughly where the Iao Needle would be. As navigator and Chief Vacation Planner I made an executive decision and instructed the driver to detour into the mountains and it paid off. There was a streak of sun and a small patch of blue just where we needed it – it was a miracle 😉

Maui had, more or less, ticked all of the relevant boxes so we headed to the airport for our brief hopper flight to the Big Island – towards the erupting volcano and the possibility of facing a week in the hazy vog of poisonous subterranean gases. Bliss 😉

The Big Island is as far removed from Maui and Kaua’i in appearance as it is possible to be. We love it for its differences – its stark black volcanic landscape dotted with golden grasses, bearded goats roaming free, olive green fields and farmland at the bases of the Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa volcanoes.

To be able to swim in crystal-clear turquoise water gazing at a pure white sand beach (the only one we found anywhere on the islands), punctuated with black lava outcrops, swathes of black lava fields as far as the eye could see inland, swaying palm trees and flowering ground-cover plants – all set against the imposing backdrop of a giant volcano in the distance – is quite unique.

There is a mountainous, rainforest part of the island to the north (Pololu and Waipi’o wilderness Valleys) and the east coast is equally as lovely as Maui’s west coast. The volcanic centre of the island is more stark and last time we hiked at Kilauea volcano as steam seeped from fissures and the surface of the earth felt warm to the touch. There are pretty towns in the south and as much variety of landscape and options to hike as the other islands.

However, when half of the island is covered in haze and vog and every morning the Chief Vacation Planner has her nose stuck in forecasts of wind direction, wind speed, vog charts and weather forecasts it does cast rather a damper over things 😉 Analysis paralysis could have set in but windows of opportunity to expand our horizons past the pool were analyzed and discussed by our band of travelers and we were ready to move at a moment’s notice.

Sadly, our friends didn’t get to see the island as we had last time, confined as we were for most of the time to the Kohala coast (thank goodness we were at least staying there in Waikoloa, 100 miles from Kilauea). Not that it was terribly traumatic reclining in relative luxury by the pool for a couple of days, but Geoff and I are rather prone to cabin fever when there is something to clamber up or a trail to hike anywhere close-by 😉

Windows of opportunity were, however, seized at the appropriate moments and we made it to Hapuna Beach in spectacular conditions where we all floated and lounged for a while in the water whilst Dave sat cross-legged on the beach in a yoga pose and worshipped the sun in a moment of tranquility 🙂

No trip to the Big Island would be complete without hiking down the rocky trail into the Pololu Valley to the black sand beach. There were more tourists there than last time – undoubtedly we were all following the same vog and wind direction forecasts – but it still retained its essence as a wild and wonderful place where you could sit alone on a log on the rocky stone beach listening to the waves and watching the sea spray rolling in from the ocean. The sun shone – it was as fabulous as our last trip.

Determined to re-visit the albeit often rainy, cloudy and damp northeast coast side of the island we headed to the Waipi’o Valley where it was rainy, cloudy and damp 😉

Turning south down the Hamakua Coast towards Hilo we drove the scenic route stopping at Laupahoehoe State Park, watched the sea mist roll in, shivered and continued on south via the scenic byway Old Mamalahoa Road overlooking Onomea Bay and the Botanical Garden. I was rather tempted to visit the Garden but my tentative suggestion was met with a stony silence – with hindsight I rather wonder if the $20 entrance fee per person wasn’t admittedly a little steep just to see more flowering specimens of the same species of plants we had seen growing in abundance in the wild.

Our next destination was Akaka Falls State Park where we took a short but circuitous paved route through the undergrowth to gawp at a waterfall with several coach loads of tourists. We made an unscheduled stop for caffeine for the designated driver at Hilo Sharks in Honomu. Exactly the sort of slightly grungy, slightly bohemian sort of place we always frequent on our travels. Geoff gave it 8 out 10 for its coffee (pretty good on the rather demanding Geoff caffeine rating scale). Ali and I gave it 10 out of 10 for its Gourmet Hot Chocolate made with homemade bars of chocolate and we all gave it 10 out of 10 for the unique friendliness of its local clientele. As we were sitting outside on benches on the deck waiting for our drinks, a couple of locals pulled up in a pick-up truck. The driver smiled, rooted about in the rear of the open truck amongst a pile of tools and equipment, grabbed a handful of lychees (still attached to the twigs from the tree from which they had been wrenched) and thrust the gift into my hand with a particularly grubby hand. Only in Hawai’i 🙂

They were delicious albeit my OCD was on the very highest level of alert 😉

A flying visit to Rainbow Falls (not a rainbow in sight) and then the highlight of the day – late lunch at Pineapples in Hilo where we all enjoyed far too many coconut and pineapple-based cocktails, washed down with fish and chips…

We avoided the lengthy south west coastal route through the gathering vog and cut inland on the very newly opened and super quick route 200 highway lying in the valley between Mauna Loa and Mauna Kea volcanoes. No hiking at Kilauea for us this trip but still a varied and fun-packed day!

Our favorite beach of the island is Makalawena – part of the Kekaha Kai State park on the Kohala coast. It is, thankfully, relatively inaccessible and usually unfrequented by tourists. Three years ago it had required some fairly rugged off-roading of about 20 minutes over dramatic lava beds through which a rough channel had been cut for 4-wheel drive vehicles to access the beaches. The local authorities have presumably tidied up the route as it was nowhere near as exhilarating and the car park was almost full. En route to Makalawena we walked past Maha’iula Beach – the first of 3 at the state park where we spotted another endangered Green Back Turtle resting in the sun on the sand. Makalawena Beach is the hardest to access –  30 minutes each way in your bikini, sunhat, socks and hiking shoes across hot lava in temperatures pushing 90F – all to reach the picture-perfect white sand beach. Thankfully, this deters most tourists but as much of the island is out of bounds we were forced to share it with other people this time. It was still utterly gorgeous until the ubiquitous vog appeared over the horizon and threatened to ruin the view.

We love the Big Island and will undoubtedly return but Kaua’i was calling and we were wondering what we would find on the North Shore once we arrived in Princeville.

Still, first stop – 4 days in Poipu before heading to the flood-stricken north. Poipu was everything it promised to be – sunny, warm and perfectly located to repeat 2 of our favorite hikes on the Garden Isle.

Kaua’i is our favorite Hawai’ian island. From the misty verdant peaks of the central Makalena Mountains and the northern Wainiha Pali; the gorgeous beaches of the North Shore (albeit inaccessible at the moment); the wild Maha’ulepu Coastal Trail – long swathes of yellow sand beaches, Hawai’ian Monk Seals basking in the sun, crystal clear waters and red and gold cliffs against a backdrop of the Ha’upu Ridge; huge Green Sea Turtles resting on the warm sand of Brennecke’s beach; the quaint towns of Koloa and Hanalei; the weekly farmers markets where vendors sell fruit and vegetables plucked from their back yards; to the stunning interior of Waimea Canyon.

No time to rest on our laurels – up and out early on our first morning for a 7am check-in at Captain Andy’s in Port Allen to take the Star Nā Pali “Snorkel and BBQ” cruise. Despite the photos on the website suggesting calm and tranquil waters, a peaceful bay to snorkel and happy guests reclining on the deck as the luxury 65′ yacht cruised sedately up and around the west coast to the Nā Pali coast, I had read endless blogs about people spending the trip with their heads hanging over the side of the yacht for the full 5½ hours.

Forewarned is forearmed. We were dosed up to the eyeballs on Bonine and Dramamine’s naturopathic ginger supplements and had a beach bag stuffed with Gin-Gin ginger chews and Carr’s dry Table Water crackers – just in case one of us should succumb. Hardly out of the harbor and we glided into a bay positively alive with spinner dolphins. The faster the catamaran travelled the faster the spinners leapt ahead of us in the waves having a wonderful time. We could see rolling farmland, the distant mountains behind Waimea and the red walls of the Waimea Canyon. Passing the Kekaha Beach Park all was still relatively sedate. As we swept around the most westerly point of the island and headed on upwards towards the Polihale State Park Beach the swell was picking up. Geoff had commandeered his own section of the boat – a table and seating for 3 – somewhere to lie down in the sun and watch the island roll past – and was provided with a constant supply of wine and snacks.

Before we reached the gigantic cloud-covered cliffs of the Nā Pali coast the seas were churning and the catamaran was crashing into 7-9 feet high waves. Ali and I were clinging on to the hand rails completely drenched in sea spray, wet hair whipping around our faces, trying not to drop our cameras into the ocean. It was utterly exhilarating. We saw pencil-thin waterfalls, tiny strips of beaches, red and green cliffs and far into the famous Kalalau Valley (which we would ultimately see again from the other side when we hiked Waimea Canyon).

We would do it again in a heartbeat. Judging by the unfortunate condition of several of our fellow passengers, the tablets were essential preparation for the rigors of the Nā Pali coastal waters. I have discovered a new sweet addiction – Gin-Gin chews – and the Carr’s Table Water Crackers we had brought for emergencies came in very handy for the poor young honeymooner who spent most of the cruise looking as green as the moss growing on the cliffs.

Back on dry land we tackled our 2 favorite hiking areas (outside of the stricken Nā Pali coast region).

Although we walked several areas along the coast around Poipu and Makahu’ena Point, the most spectacular of the south coast trails is the Maha’ulepu Coastal trail beginning at Shipwreck beach – the views are so beautiful we walked it 3 times in various directions from different starting points – ultimately making it to Kawelikoa Point. We passed a mother and her month old Hawai’ian Monk Seal pup on Gillins beach; spotted sea turtles feeding on the grasses, battered about by the waves on the shoreline; saw beautiful iridescent orange, green and blue parrotfish; watched locals fishing from the cliffs at Kamala Point whilst Geoff body-surfed the waves at Kawailoa Bay; marveled at the crazy surfers at Maha’ulepu Beach and clambered over clifftops and along wild, almost deserted beaches.

For a relatively easy hike there isn’t a dull moment on this section of the coastline 🙂

Further inland we were looking for something a little more challenging at Waimea Canyon.

We trooped to the usual viewpoints – Waimea Canyon Lookout, Kalalau Lookout and Pu’u o Kila Lookout for the ultimate viewpoint over the Kalalau Valley. Three years ago, Geoff and I hiked from both of these latter viewpoints. This time the weather Gods weren’t smiling on us as benevolently as our previous trip although, by some miracle, there was a sudden parting in the clouds over the Kalalau Valley far below us and we saw a brief glimpse of what is surely one of the worlds most wonderful views – through the rainforest, across the jagged cliffs of the valley out to the teal waters of the ocean. On a good day this view is beyond spectacular 🙂

As beautiful as it is, we weren’t there just to gawp at the coastline through the gathering clouds with the tour groups. We were armed with a picnic, hiking poles and enough water to last a week and were about to re-trace steps on one of our favorite short hikes to the most dramatic picnic spot on the island. We hiked down into the valley along the Cliff Trail through the trees, over rocks and boulders and then out onto the red rock ridge-top of Canyon Trail on the north rim of the canyon. Here the ridge-top is slippery and uneven and if you slipped or tripped you wouldn’t hit the bottom until you’d fallen 3000 feet plunging past the Kokee rainforest and the multi-colored red, orange and green walls of the canyon. The views are amazing but our destination was still slightly below us at the top of the Waipo’o Falls.

Waipo’o Falls is an 800 foot cascading waterfall which is visible from various vantage points along the scenic Waimea Canyon Drive. It is probably the most photographed waterfall in the canyon. To get a sense of scale – it has a starring role in my photos – kauai-waimea-canyon-4 and kauai-waimea-canyon-8-waipoo-falls. Our vantage point for lunch was squashed onto a rock by the Awapuhi ginger-lined stream on the very edge of the canyon wall where the water tumbles and falls over the top of the canyon.

We were lucky – just as we were last time – we had the coveted 3 foot rock to ourselves to share for our picnic as we watched the helicopter tours pass by and the water cascade over the ledge at our feet.

A thoroughly Jurassic Park experience 🙂

On the matter of culinary delights in the southern Poipu area I should make a note for future reference that the food and the cocktails are only surpassed by the sunset view at the Beach House Restaurant and that if you happened to find the shelves stocked with coconut macaroons or chocolate brownies at Living Foods Market then every one should be bought and stored and shipped back to us.

It is no wonder we were all 1 whole dress/shorts size larger by the end of our trip.

The time finally came to make the trip (with no little sense of disquiet) up to Princeville and to see for our own eyes what carnage had been wreaked upon the North Shore.

First stop – the Hanalei Valley lookout. Three years ago a picture-perfect mountain-backed view over taro fields and settlements down in the valley. On 14th April 2018 – a devastated wasteland of brown muddy flood water. On May 25th 2018 – the valley had returned to a patchwork quilt of newly planted taro fields 🙂 Things were looking up.

It transpired that Hanalei town itself had returned completely to normal – a world away from the flooded, polluted run-off waters which had engulfed the buildings a few weeks before. We pushed our luck to see how far we could drive along the coastal road – on the remote off-chance that we might be able to access Tunnels Beach. Alas not – the road was closed to anyone but locals and down at the waterside of Hanalei Bay we could see the remnants of houses featured in the photographic evidence of the destruction which had been circulated on the news websites.

Like it, or not, we were to be confined to the beaches east of Princeville. Happily, one of our previous favorites, Secret Beach, which lies in the shadow of Kilauea Lighthouse, was open for business. We re-fuelled at Kilauea Fish Market with fresh tuna tacos; fell upon a new coffee shop – Trilogy – selling vegan and gluten-free cakes and cookies (so good we sneaked back the following day whilst Dave and Ali were relaxing back at the house); and headed to the trailhead for the beach. Three years ago we were the only people on the beach, bar one. After the floods in April rendered a whole area of the coast inaccessible, the parking area was jam-packed back along the country lane and there were dozens of people frolicking in the water – like us – with no alternative beaches to visit. By the time we’d walked from one end to the other we had all but lost the throngs of people and each found our own personal rock perch from which to enjoy the silvery light of the fading sun on the sea.

Only one more day to go before we left the Islands to return home. For years I wanted to kayak the Hanalei River. I wasn’t expecting to be able to do it this time. The sun eased out behind the clouds in a weak effort to shine so we left the packing behind us and made for Kayak Hanalei right on the riverbank. We each paid over our $60 for a double kayak for the day and were shown the map. Either left – out to the bay or right – inland towards the mountains. It was supposed to be a 2 hour round trip inland to where a landslide had brought down trees making the river impassable (it would have been nice to have known this pre-payment as we might not have bothered). About 30 minutes of gentle paddling along the river (festooned with drifting yellow hibiscus flowers) we reached the landslide and turned around. We might have tried to make more of our money by continuing back past the kayak base out to the bay but the wisps of sunlight turned rapidly into giant drops of Kaua’i sized rain. We huddled briefly under the one-lane historic Hanalei road bridge crossing the river and then made a dash for it paddling as hard as we could before we were soaked through to our underwear.

This might have been a not very auspicious end to a fantastic trip across three of the Hawai’ian Islands. But, we still had one more evening at the Beach House Restaurant in Poipu to marvel at our last Kaua’ian sunset and sample yet another of their legendary Monkeypod Mai Tai cocktails; a world-class concoction of light and dark rums, macadamia nut syrup, lime, orange curaçao, a slice of pineapple and a thick layer of honey-lilikoi (passionfruit) foam.

Just like the island of Kaua’i – totally unforgettable 🙂

P.S. For those of you interested in seeing the parts of the islands (in particular the spectacular Nā Pali coast and our very favorite beach – Tunnels Beach) which we weren’t able to visit this trip please click on this link.