Rovinj, Croatia
Photo’s are here, or you can just click on the photo above.
Spectacular Croatia!
Our new favorite European country … clean, super friendly with pretty medieval towns and villages and a fabulous coastline.
1. Brač Island:
Brač Island photos are here.
Brač is a rugged, agricultural island with olive groves and small vineyards. The hillside slopes are divided with criss-crossing stone walls and dotted with scrub bushes. It lies in the Adriatic Sea just a short 40 minute ferry ride from Split harbor on the mainland to Supetar on the north coast of the island of Brač. We stayed for 5 nights at the beginning of May with my sister-in-law Helen and niece Eda in the tiny, peaceful hilltop village of Skrip in a modern villa.
A note on timing – it was tough finding restaurants open for lunch during our day trips out and about to the various villages because the beginning of May is very early in the shoulder season. The weather was also as cloudy and chilly as it was sunny and warm so a touch early for typical summer vacation weather … my mistake but we had to start somewhere! 😉
Highlights of Brač:
a. Bol, on the southern coast, is the oldest and the most popular small town on the island renowned for its famous beach, Zlatni Rat (otherwise known as “the Golden Horn”). The beach protrudes 500 meters out into the sea in a pointed finger of golden pebbles backed by a 100 year old pine forest. The water here is clear and blue and is easily accessible via a short 1½ mile (2.4 km) stroll along the waterfront (or you can catch the toy-town train which runs in high season along the waterfront). In my humble opinion, Zlatni Rat is very possibly the most overrated pebble beach in the world! Like all towns on Brač you could spend a few hours and see all of the relevant highlights. The old town is undeniably picturesque and the small harbor is lined with cafes and shops where you can sit and watch the fishing boats bobbing about in the clear, turquoise waters. A short walk out of town and you can visit the Dominican Monastery flanked either side by tranquil pebble beaches. The summit of Vidova Gora looms at 2,552 feet (4,107 meters) above the town of Bol and is the highest point in all of the Adriatic islands from which you can admire Bol, the coastline, the Golden Horn and the neighboring island of Hvar.
b. Pučišća is a coastal town on the north of the island and was my personal favorite. It has been hailed as one of the prettiest small towns in Europe. In addition to being peaceful and very picturesque, it is also home to a world renowned school of stonemasonry whose students learn to carve sculptures and ornaments from the bright white limestone for which the region is famed. The stone has been used for centuries to create art and construct buildings as diverse as the Diocletian’s Palace in Split, the Cathedral of Trogir, the church of Christ the King in Selca, the Parliament in Vienna and the White House in Washington DC! The white limestone, whose origins trace back to the Roman era, is prized for its high quality, its durability, its pearly texture and dazzling bright white appearance.
c. Splitska is a very small village on the north coast close to Skrip and to our villa. Very pretty and very tranquil. There is a bar with outdoor tables under straw palapa thatch umbrellas where you can sip a cold beer or freshly squeezed orange juice on the waterfront. The village was founded in the 13th century and, back in the day, it was a very important shipping port in the export of white limestone to the mainland.
d. As luck would have it, our villa (Villa Natanel in Skrip village) is owned by a delightfully friendly family who also own the well-known and very popular olive oil museum in the village (Musej Uja). This was very lucky for us because we were invited as their guests to visit the museum for a quick tour, a sample of their sweet olive oil liqueur and best of all a feast of locally produced delicacies. They fed us marinated tuna, anchovies, and fish paste served with roasted vegetables and sun-dried tomatoes. There was a wild arugula salad with tomatoes and cucumber, there was a platter of fresh cheeses and homemade jams including ricotta and reduced grape musk syrup for dessert. Honestly, one of the most delicious meals any of us could remember for a long time. Farm-to-table, homemade and super fresh! The atmosphere is also highly congenial because the hosts (who are all part of the same extended family and equally invested in the successful running of the family-owned rental villa) speak great english and are desperate to ensure you’re enjoying yourself at all times! They’ve also found a niche market, in the olive oil museum and restaurant, for a business which otherwise would just revolve around the production and bottling of olive oil. I’m sure it’s a goldmine – popular island cycling tours make bookings in advance and others arrive in small groups for the tour and the best lunch on the island. We were spoilt with our free lunch but it was so good we made a reservation to return a couple of days later for the same fish menu (menu number 5) which is an absolute bargain at €30 per person including wine and homemade lemonade. We learned that, historically, the olive oil factory was founded by the current owner’s grandfather in 1864 but it was abandoned for various reasons over the years – including the detrimental effects of communist rule and, more recently, wartime strife. Since then it has been lovingly restored by the current generation of the family from a dilapidated structure to a beautiful building housing the museum and the tasting rooms. Even if you’re not absolutely enthralled with the process of olive oil production – go for the lunch and the atmosphere! We all loved it!
e. Postira was perhaps our least favorite village … probably because it doesn’t quite have the natural beauty of either Bol or Pučišća. We walked along the waterfront but we weren’t really feeling it … However, there is a neighboring beach which was well worth the side-trip – Plaža Lovrečina – which lies in a wide, shallow bay between pine-covered headlands. There is a golden-sand and pebble beach and the water is clear, clean and shallow – perfect for swimming if you’re a hardy Brit. Our family seemed to barely notice they were wading through icebergs 😉 If you’re a Floridian visiting at the beginning of May … it was a step too far!
f. Supetar is the main ferry port on the north coast with an attractive, sweeping palm-lined waterfront great for a stroll to walk off lunch (or one too many ice-creams). It is the largest town on the island and has an impressive limestone church which dominates the skyline. The white limestone Baroque Church of the Annunciation of Mary dates from the 17th century. Not the most exciting of towns but if you’re in the area, I would say that the light is much prettier in the morning on the fishing boats and the harbor front buildings.
2. Dubrovnik Riviera:
Dubrovnik Riviera photos are here.
The Dubrovnik Riviera in Southern Dalmatia hardly needs any introduction from me! We based ourselves for the week in the beautiful, luxury “Villa Maria” in the tiny, mountain village of Martinovići, 15 minutes south of Dubrovnik. Views from the villa stretched from the right towards the border with Bosnia across the sweeping surrounding mountains and down across the valley towards the Adriatic as far as the headland which wraps around the town of Cavtat in the distance. We could also see rustic farmland, out-buildings, olive groves and orange and lemon trees from our terrace. Our Brit friends, Dave and Ali flew in to visit us for 5 nights which was a lot of fun. In the evenings, the guys grilled veggies (on the state of the art outdoor kitchen grill) which we had bought from the Green Market in Gruž and fresh whole sea bass with giant shrimp (from the excellent fish monger, Ribarnica “Malo More”, on the outskirts of Dubrovnik). Our host brought us punnets of fresh, organic strawberries grown in the garden of one of the local residents in the village which were ruby red and sweeter than any I had tasted since my mother cultivated her own in a patch in the garden of my childhood home. Over long breakfasts we marveled at the changing light creating patterns over the mountains as the clouds drifted overhead. We explored the region in the mornings and during our lazy afternoons sitting by the pool we were entertained by swallows swirling all around us as they swooped with open beaks into the pool for a drink.
Great villa, great friends and delicious locally-sourced food!
Highlights of the Southeast Coast of Dubrovnik Riviera:
a. Dubrovnik Old Town, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1979 (and famed filming location of Game of Thrones!). Many of the buildings date from the Middle Ages, the mid-15th to the late16th century Renaissance period and the 17th and 18th century ornate Baroque period.
Every man and his dog has been to the Old Town (either on a long weekend’s vacation or over a few rushed hours ferried in by cruise ship) but it can’t be denied that it is absolutely fabulous and easily one of the most polished cities in Europe. It is best visited very early in the morning (especially if you want to avoid the aforementioned “every man on the planet and his pooch”, so we chose to walk the walls at 8am in relative peace and quiet (the €40 per person entrance fee is hefty but worth it!). The views are incredible at every turn – down the length of the main limestone promenade of Stradun which is worn to a gleaming shine by hundreds of years of foot traffic; over the imposing Fort Lovrijenac sitting 121 feet (37 meters) above sea level; towards Lokrum Island, and across a jumbled maze of terracotta-tiled rooftops. All this against the backdrop of the blue Adriatic far below the high fortified walls. You can peek down into terraced courtyard gardens filled with roses and pink oleanders; there are shady patios, and vine-covered terraces and views towards the Minčeta Tower (a 15th-century stronghold and the highest vantage point of the city). You also have a bird’s eye view across the famous 102 feet tall (31 meter) City Bell Tower located on Luža Square at the end of the Stradun, the Church of St Blaise, and down over the historic Old Port.
By 10am back down on Stradun, it was packed with cruise shippers (3 behemoths had moored up in town that morning … yikes!) so we took refuge in a bar at the bottom of the Jesuit Stairs for a freshly squeezed orange juice and a beer. Geoff was nearly pickpocketed by a couple of teenage kids at the bottom of the chaotically crowded Jesuit Stairs but thankfully all his valuables were securely zipped into his shorts. He felt both kids bang into him one on either side and then a brief tugging at his zips so he walloped one of them with his water bottle and they legged it! Unbelievable … but then again it’s Europe so you almost expect to be robbed at some stage …
Despite the chaos of the Stradun, it is surprisingly easy to avoid the crowds of cruisers with their audio sets dangling around their necks and lanyards identifying their ship (in case they forget which one they’re on 😉) . We successfully escaped the throngs and meandered through the back streets, up winding stairways and along narrow alleyways and were all but alone again … Mid-morning crowds aside, we all loved it and had an amazing time in the Old Town. For Geoff and I, it’s our second time in the city but it was lovely to see it again through new eyes with our Brit friends! We had a fabulous time wandering and exploring. We ate delicious Sea Bass and shrimp pasta for lunch at Proto Fish Restaurant just off Stradun promenade. Ever eagle-eyed, I spotted a Moritz Eis gelato store (newly opened in the Old Town) opposite Proto. It is the best ice-cream and sorbet in the world! Lemon and mint, ginger with blood orange, and dark chocolate … all yummy!
For views over the Old Town from a distance you can either take the cable car, drive up to the cable car viewpoint, risk life and limb stopping at various strategic locations along the busy main road or, I would recommend, stop at the amphitheatre in Park Orsula which was built on the site of the former 14th century Church of St. Ursula. It is free to wander the park (again we were entirely alone) and the late morning views over the amphitheater, olive groves and wilds flowers to Dubrovnik were breathtaking. The best view over the city in my opinion!
b. The beautiful town of Cavtat lies 25 minutes south of Dubrovnik. You have to park on the outskirts of the old town in the main car park which is a stone’s throw from the harbor. We took the longer, circuitous, scenic route to the town and walked the pine-shaded waterfront headland loop. There are beautiful views along the Dalmatian Coast from here. You will pass pretty coves with white rocks and crystal-clear turquoise and blue waters around the peninsula as you circle around the headland to the town. We popped out by the small Franciscan Church of “Our Lady of the Snow” and walked uphill to the Mausoleum of the Racic Family with its peaceful garden overlooking the town and tidy graveyard with views over the Adriatic. There are quaint cobbled alleyways in the centre of the town, winding stone steps, gardens with fragrant jasmine tumbling over walls and traditional 14th century stone buildings. Along the harbor front there are yachts, fishing boats and a lovely palm-lined promenade backed by cafes, restaurants and gift stores. At the far end lies the white limestone St Nicholas Church built in 1732. You can continue the scenic walkway route around the harbor and past Hotel Croatia Cavtat where it becomes a gravel track. We stopped for lunch at “Bugenvila in Cavtat” and sat under the shade of jasmine intertwined with vines. The waterfront terrace is gorgeous, easily the best in town with views to the harbor. The 3-course fish special menu was phenomenal with an excellent innovative contemporary spin on traditional Dalmatian food. Great value, perfect ambience and pretty peaceful for a late lunch on a Monday afternoon. A couple of days later we tried “La Boheme” further along the harbor front. It was very pleasant but nowhere near as good as Bugenvila in our various and considered opinions!
c. If you’re in the region for a few days, a watery excursion to the Elaphiti Islands is an unmissable contrast to the spectacular grandeur of Dubrovnik. You can take a private tour boat, or you can do as we did, and take the independent route. We caught the Jadrolinja public passenger ferry from Gruž harbor where the larger cruise ships dock. It has limited scheduled departure times so you have to choose your destination islands according to interest and arrival and departure times. You will not be able to visit all three Elaphiti Islands in one day. The first stop is Koločep (with 2 small villages connected by a 2 mile walking trail) then Lopud (with one village and a walking trail to the much-lauded Šunj beach) and finally Šipan which was our destination for the day.
Šipan is the largest island (it’s still tiny!) with 2 small fishing villages, Suduraj (where the ferry docks) and Šipanska Luka at the other end of the island. Suduraj is a charmingly bijou fishing village with brightly colored fishing nets drying on the harbor walls. There is also a beautiful 16th-century fortress – the former summer residence of a local sea merchant. In theory you can catch the island’s only bus between the 2 villages but we missed it! It only runs every 3 hours and we were too busy wandering aimlessly along the harbor in Suduraj enjoying the views and the utter peace and quiet to take any notice of its scheduled departure time 😉 So, we had a beer and a freshly squeezed orange juice at Balun bar which juts out into the water and contemplated an alternative plan! As day trip organizer, I had set my heart on eating lunch at the casual fish restaurant, Konoba Kod Marka, in Šipanska Luka, 3 miles away. We had missed the bus … there are no taxis on the island … and it was far too hot to walk along the shadeless road between the 2 villages. Undeterred, Geoff called the restaurant and explained our predicament. No less than 10 minutes later the chef (fully dressed the part in his stripy pants) screeched to a halt next to the harbor and we all squeezed into his tiny car which weaved uphill and across the pretty, rustic island passing through vineyards and olive groves.
There is no printed menu nor price list at Konoba Kod Marka – they only serve daily specials which are plucked fresh from the sea or picked locally so our lunch was arugula, tomatoes and feta cheese with fresh anchovies, followed by fresh grilled shrimp, a 3 pound Sea Bass to share and finally, a unique take on a lemon flavored creme brûlée. Great food, superb ambience and the views over the small village of Šipanska Luka from our frontline waterfront table were pretty perfect. After lunch the chef drove us back across the island in time to catch our return ferry to Dubrovnik! You don’t get better service than that! 💕 One of our most memorable days in Croatia!
d. Plaža Srebreno beach and Mlini fishing village are the closest beach areas to Villa Maria. The Sheraton backs onto Plaža Srebreno beach which is busy and dominated by noisy bars and fast food restaurants (yuck). The walkway along the cove and the water front improves dramatically as you head as far away as possible from the chaos! At the end of the promenade lies Mlini – pretty enough but not really a top destination in our view unless you plan to swim. The beach is the typical mix of rock and pebbles with shady pine trees and very clear water. We had lunch on a terrace overlooking the water at La Norma which was very good.
e. Ston and the Peljesac Peninsula are within driving distance but didn’t make the cut for us due to limited time and other priorities. We did, however, pass through the area en route to the ferry at Drvenik in the Makarska Riviera for our next destination – the island of Hvar. The region is known for its idyllic pebble beaches, mountains and vineyards. We spotted the village of Ston from the highway and were stunned by the length and scale of the famous wall. Ston is home to the world’s second longest fortified walls. It is the longest in Europe, running for almost 3½ miles (5.6 km) with towers and fortresses from ground level to the top of the steep hillside behind the village. The walls were built in 1358 to protect the area and the lucrative salt pans. Our driving route continued through the bright green Neretva River Delta which is a highly fertile agricultural and wetland region famous for tangerine orchards and its unique river ecosystem. The road trip journey north from Dubrovnik was beautiful – turquoise waters, secluded bays, and the occasional pretty waterfront town until you reach the port town of Drvenik which is pretty nondescript. The outdoor bar in town by the dock is frequented by chain smokers (one of the things we always struggle with in Europe and Croatia is a proud nation of chain smokers which is unfortunate!). I left Geoff to his beer and sat on a bench in the shade by the water next to the car waiting for the ferry to arrive which was a lot more appealing than choking to death over a coffee at a table in the bar!
3. Hvar Island:
Hvar Island photos are here.
The ferry from the mainland at Drvenik arrives at Sućuraj (on the easternmost point of Hvar) which I’m sure is normally a very, very, very quiet village.However, when a ferry arrives and disgorges 100 cars all at the same time the otherwise scenic winding route across the island becomes a clogged major highway through the winding mountain roads. If you get stuck behind a camper van it can be a tad frustrating. Things improved once we’d overtaken the slow drivers and, more importantly, navigated past a wedding party in 6 or 7 vehicles driving 20 mph below the speed limit hogging the narrow roads. The passenger in the lead car of the cavalcade was waving a 10 foot tall Croatian flag through the sunroof of the car which didn’t help matters! Even once we’d left the other drivers for dust the journey was slow, tortuous and remarkably dangerous. The narrow roads drop off cliffs on either side without barriers or trees to prevent you rolling into someone’s olive grove. And to add an extra frisson of excitement the local authority was digging up huge sections of road so that one wheel grated across the unpaved gravel and the other was balanced at significant elevation above it on the new tarmac. What fun! Glad I wasn’t driving 
We were only on the island for 5 days but we absolutely loved Hvar. We could easily have hung out for 10 days with plenty to explore and a raft of beautiful beaches easily accessible on the south coast. We were holed up in a very nice villa (Lapis Villa) in the mountain village of Selca Kod just a few minutes outside of Stari Grad (one of our favorite small towns in Croatia!). The villa has a spectacular view over the pine-covered Kabal peninsula which juts out into the Adriatic like a long, skinny, green finger. From our sun loungers on the pool terrace we could see over the Kabal peninsula as far as to Bol and Zlatni Rat on the neighboring island of Brač. In the far distance we could also see the Croatian mainland. The Mediterranean garden of our villa was filled with lavender, herbs and brightly-colored flowers. Butterflies fluttered and bees buzzed around us as we watched the yachts coming and going in the harbor below in Stair Grad. Positively idyllic!
Highlights of the island of Hvar:
a. Stari Grad! It is a very pretty, well maintained town on the northern coast of the island with winding stone alleyways and vine-covered courtyards. It is one of the oldest towns in Europe and benefits from a deep water channel, Stari Grad Bay which provides safe harbor out of the wind for vessels. The region is equally famous for the fertile Stari Grad Plains (prettiest bathed in warm, early evening light). The agricultural land on the plains was divided into neat parcels with dry stone wall boundaries 2,400 years ago by Greek colonists and it has remained pretty much the same since then (as a result of which its historical and cultural significance was protected by UNESCO in 2008).
There are restaurants in shady corners in the Old Town and along the sunny waterfront in Stari Grad. In the summer months the town becomes home to a mix of billionaire’s yachts and barely buoyant dilapidated local fishing boats. It is a delightful place to hang out and watch the world go by from one of the great restaurants or waterfront bars. It is at its loveliest (if you want some peace and quiet) in the late afternoon when there is a lull between the lunch and dinner crowds and in the early evening the town is bathed in a warm light. It is also THE spot for watching sunset! The small town is really quite beautiful! Don’t miss tiny Škor Square which is a curved square surrounded by traditional Dalmatian stone houses. The square is also home to an exceptional restaurant – Antika (so good we ate there twice). St. Stephen’s Square in front of the Church of St. Stephen (the first Baroque church in Croatia) is also very peaceful with great late afternoon light for photography. The large impressive central square is Tvrdalj Square by Tvrdalj Castle which was the summer residence of Petar Hektorović, the Croatian poet. We loved this town!
b. Hvar Town, by contrast, is very swish and an obvious highlight of the island. We arrived at the Spanjola Fort which overlooks the Old Town around 9.30am when the morning light was great over the harbor and towards the Pakleni Islands. The entrance fee is a bit pricey but where else will you see such a beautiful view over such an iconic town? Hvar Town is trendy, glitzy and full of the young, tanned and beautiful. The Riva Promenade is temporary home to wealthy yachties and party-goers. There are cool bars and restaurants great for people watching along the waterfront and beautiful Venetian buildings and all against the spectacular backdrop of Spanjola Fort! Away from the waterfront there are narrow alleyways, cobbled streets, balconies with flowers and excellent coffee shops. We stopped at Kiva 37 for coffee which was great. It’s very popular but we were lucky enough to grab one of the wooden benches in the shade on the cobblestone alleyway in front of the coffee shop. Unless you’re a 20-something party animal you’ll probably want to go early to see the Old Town before it gets crazy busy!
c. Dubovika Beach was a 10 minute drive from our villa, on the south coast. It is reputedly one of Hvar’s prettiest beaches. To reach it you have to park on the main road (route 116) on a dirt pull off and walk down a rugged, stony track through olive trees and scrub to Dubovika village at sea level. We arrived early, at 8am and were completely alone for an hour and a half (save for 2 yachts moored up in a cove at the back of the church). The white pebble beach and turquoise waters set against the background of the 17th century stone church was pretty special. Even Geoff couldn’t resist the lure of the picture perfect crystal clear water!
d. The drive over the mountain route from Stari Grad past Velo Grablje and through the village of Brusje (famous for its lavender fields which bloom mid-June through July) to Hvar Town is spectacular. There are lovely views over the coast, the lavender fields, the Pakleni Islands and the islands of Brač and Korčula in the far distance. We drove the winding mountain route towards Hvar Town and then circled around the south coast via Milna passing beautiful pebble coves (such as Malo Zarace Beach) with bright blue water before cutting back through the Pitve–Zavala Tunnel to the north coast to our villa.
4. Primosten, Trogir & Krka National Park:
Primosten, Trogir & Krka National Park photos are here.
a. Primošten is a cute, former fishing village on a picturesque peninsula between the cities of Trogir and Šibenik on the Šibenik Riviera. The attractive part of Primošten (as opposed to the ugly part!) is located on a historic peninsula which, from above, looks circular and is ringed by shades of teal and dark blue water. The interior is characterized by narrow streets. If you head uphill from the main square through Galerija you will find the 15th-century Church of St. George at the highest point, in the heart of the island. Primošten’s appeal lies not so much in the interior but in its perimeter promenade. If you start at Plaža Luka (the prettiest town beach) the town seems to rise like a mirage behind the beach in the early morning light. This is the perfect time to stroll through the Old Town Gate and around the perimeter whilst it is still peaceful. The perimeter walkway has 365° gorgeous views over beach coves, sea view restaurants clinging to rocks and distant islands. One of the highlight meals of our couple of months in Croatia was in a traditional restaurant hidden in the interior of the village. Konoba Dvor had fabulous food in a beautiful courtyard with excellent service. It was so good we visited for both lunch and dinner. The harbor side of the village has cafes and restaurants and as you follow the pathway around the rocky peninsula there are bars and restaurants dotted along the walkway which will come to life much later in the day towards sunset.
There is a daily morning fish market which is particularly busy on Friday mornings (THE day of the week for local Catholics to eat fish). We didn’t eat better anywhere in Croatia than in this region because of the quality of fresh fruit, veg and fish. We ate fresh fish most days from the local fisherman (Ribarnika) located down by the historic stone City Gate at the entrance to old town Primošten. Every morning he sets up a table and trays of ice and sells dorado, sea bass, shrimp and shark which he fishes from the local waters before sunrise. If you’re looking for super fresh produce you also won’t do better than the green market stalls in the same location – perfect for berries, watermelon, fresh figs and vegetables.
Whilst the town is known for its pebble beaches (Geoff prefers the term rubble ) I would highly recommend avoiding the horrible Mala Raduca beach which backs onto a pine covered peninsula and a depressingly awful-looking hotel. The grey rubble (to be fair to Geoff, the beach is definitely not made of pebbles!) of Mala Raduca is covered in kids’ blow up toys and chaos – don’t waste your time and just head to one of the pristine stretches of rocky coastline outside of town!
b. We loved our morning trip to Trogir with its ancient Greek, Roman and medieval history. There are fabulous, narrow medieval stone-paved street, beautiful squares and an impressive waterfront promenade . We had great coffee (and the best chocolate croissant!) at CHI Coffee Shop. What’s not to love?! The Old Town is pedestrianized but there are easily accessible parking lots outside the old town, a few minutes walk away. If you visit, look for the central square and the Cathedral of St Lawrence which are lovely. Inadvertently we visited on May 30th which is the annual Croatian national holiday of Statehood Day so we couldn’t climb the Bell Tower for its iconic view but we did get to listen to the local brass band playing the national anthem in the town square in front of the City Loggia which was very rousing! Kamerlengo Fortress with its imposing Sveti Marko tower has the best view over the Riva Promenade but it was also closed due to the public holiday!
c. Krka National Park is not quite as iconic as the world famous Plitvice National Park but worth a brief visit all the same. We headed out on a sunny afternoon trip to admire the famous Skradinski Buk waterfall with thousands of other admirers! Since it was hot and we had no interest in hiking the trails for half a day through the park, we took the easy option and booked a 3pm ferry (included in the entrance price for the park) from the village of Skradin. There are 2 main entrances out of a total of 5 (the park is huge) but the highlight of the park is undoubtedly its most famous waterfall – Skradinski buk – and this is most easily accessible from the Skradin entrance. The ferry ride is a minor highlight of the park as the Krka River carves through the limestone canyon on its 44-mile journey (70 km) from the foothills of the Dinaric Alps to Šibenik on the coast. It is a short 15-20 minute river ferry ride and then you simply follow the snaking crowds to the face of Skradinski buk. The water cascades 78 feet (24 meters) to the crystal clear pond beneath. The best viewpoint is from the wooden boardwalk to the right of the waterfall and the best time of day to see it in all of its technicolor glory is in the bright, late afternoon sunshine. 3.30pm was perfect. There are winding wooden paths traversing emerald pools and lagoons and although it’s very busy and crowded in the afternoon it is worth an hour of your time to see something other than historic towns and beautiful coastline!
d. There are some spectacularly beautiful coastal views around Bilo and Dolac (our absolute favourite part of this coast) where it was far nicer to find a tiny beach (or swim off the rocks using the conveniently located ladders) than swim at Primošten. The sea is transparent – it was like swimming in turquoise glass! Beach Bilo is worth an early morning swim before the crowds arrive to ruin the tranquility but the official beach is not really the highlight of this stretch of the coastline. There is a 3 mile (5 km) scenic pathway which runs between Primošten and Bilo and the views are glorious on a sunny day. We started at Beach Bilo and followed it past posh villas in Port Magistrala and onwards to the pretty harbor of Dolac. The views of the teal waters and the rugged rocks are fabulous – great for a morning stroll or sitting under the shade of the fragrant pine trees with a coffee watching the yachts navigate between the myriad of tiny islands in the bay. Geoff picked wild onions, rock samphire and rosemary to cook with the fresh fish we’d bought earlier in the morning from the fisherman down in Primošten. We swam off the rocks under Kod Ivana Restaurant – entirely alone – bobbing about in the calm teal waters. Absolute bliss!
e. We had mixed feelings about Šibenik. The pedestrianised Old Town was worth an hour of our time because it was only 30 minutes from our villa but (for the first time in a month in Croatia) it felt like we were back in grungy Europe! Dirty streets and sidewalks and the outskirts were quite run down. If you’re a Game of Thrones fan, the Cathedral of St. James in Šibenik served as a backdrop in which Šibenik portrays Braavos, the city of the Iron Bank. The architecturally stunning 15th-century stone Cathedral of St. James in Republic Square is decorated with 71 sculpted faces and the surrounding Venetian Baroque buildings are beautiful. This section is the absolute highlight of the city. Šibenik is known as The City of Stairs (even more than in Dubrovnik) – so be prepared for a workout. There are winding, labyrinthine, medieval back streets and archways to meander through but don’t expect it to be pristine Croatia! You might also spot one of the four famous medieval stone wells or you could hike up the stairs to the Monastery of St Laurence garden. We didn’t – instead we opted for coffee and a fluffy cream confection (which I wouldn’t rush back for) at Moderato Coffee and Cakes (formerly known as Moderato Cantabile) which is located in the elegant historic Villa Pasini. The building features a classic, elegant yellow painted facade and a pretty courtyard which was rammed with people and the ubiquitous Baltics chain-smokers. Surrounding the Old Town, the waterfront promenade isn’t particularly inspiring. St. Michael’s Fortress with its open-air theatre apparently has great views over the city but we decided to abandon further exploration in favor of an afternoon at the beach!
5. Rastoke & Plitvice National Park:
Rastoke & Plitvice National Park photos are here.
6. Istrian Peninsula:
Istrian Peninsula photos are here.
a. Rovinj! We’ve seen some stunningly beautiful towns, villages and coastlines in Croatia during our extended explorations which we loved but we particularly enjoyed this small tourist town on the southwest coast of the Istrian Peninsula! It is the “pearl” of the peninsula. The Old Town is pedestrianized (with the odd golf buggy running guests to and from their harder to reach hotels). The pretty, narrow cobbled streets and alleys wind uphill in a maze towards St Euphemia’s Church (Sveta Eufemija) which sits at the highest point above the town. It can be seen for miles dominating the horizon. The views from a distance over the colorful fishing boats towards the backdrop of the town are as breathtaking as wandering the scenic backstreets with its houses in shades of pastel pinks, yellows and oranges. It is a highly photogenic place – around every corner there are beautiful tableaus – tiny courtyards, washing drying in the breeze and pots of cascading summer flowers. From a distance, the small “fairytale” town glows golden in the early morning light.
Since we caught the end of a major European heatwave during our 3 days and nights in Rovinj, this meant very early mornings wandering the streets and then back to the Grand Park Hotel Rovinj for a swim and a late breakfast. It was the only way to survive the heat before it set in like a furnace by 10am (this should explain the almost complete absence of other human life in many of the photos!). We walked into town at 7am and we were on our way back to breakfast and the rooftop infinity-edge pool at the hotel by 9:30am. The light was absolutely magical in the early morning and even though we were dripping in sweat by 9:30am it was worth the sweaty walk just to see the ever-changing light passing over the town. From our hotel, we walked back and forth along the attractive paved Lungomare past the mega-yachts moored up in the ACI Marina to the harbor in the Old Town with its traditional painted “batana” fishing boats. There is more than an essence of Italy about the town which isn’t surprising given its history. Landmarks (apart from the Church) are the Baroque Balbi Arch, La Grisia street, Trg Maršala Tita (a beautiful central square with a fountain), the Panorama pathway and Plaža Balota (the main rocky beach next to Puntalina) – amongst others! We wandered for a few hours over 2 mornings. It was very peaceful – completely the opposite in the afternoon and evenings when the restaurants and cafes are full and the streets are teeming with tourists. If you are in need of an excellent gelato to accompany you on your evening “passeggiata” along the harbor front (in true Italian style) then we highly recommend “Ombra – laboratorio del gelato”! It was absolutely fabulous!
There are many famous restaurants in town with long waiting lists and because we were distracted by our month in Slovenia we were left with few options for last minute bookings – 5:30 pm at Puntalina in the searing heat of 95°F (35°C) didn’t appeal so we stuck to the hotel restaurant (Laurel and Berry) for one night and then dinner at Kantinon Tavern in a historic stone building on the waterfront another evening (which has excellent views and great handmade tagliatelle with lobster!).
There are few places we have loved enough to immediately book another vacation but we loved Rovinj – and in particular the swish 5* Grand Park Hotel Rovinj which is a pleasant 15 minute waterfront stroll to the Old Town harbor front. The breakfast was probably the best in living memory (part buffet and part a la carte) and there was no need for lunch as you’d be sustained until dinner. The luxury Spa is renowned and the view from the various terraces, restaurants and the infinity-edge pool over the blue Adriatic to the Old Town were honestly enough to distract you for hours. It is a fab hotel set on the waterfront behind the ACI Marina within a 2 minute walk of the Mulini Beach Club where we swam off the rocks on our last morning … glorious!
After leaving Rovinj, we drove inland to our rural villa in the centre of the peninsula (located in the village of Sveti Petar u Sumi) where we were joined by our friends, Barrie and Karen from Somerset, England. They flew in to visit us for the last week of our adventures through Croatia! For the avoidance of doubt, Sveti Petar u Sumi is an unassuming village in the absolute middle of nowhere with little to offer in terms of attractive scenery or cultural diversion … perhaps not my finest choice in location although there are 2 very cute friendly donkeys in a local paddock which were always happy to see Geoff wielding a fresh carrot or 2
b. Motovun is one of the highlights of the central region of the peninsula. It is a well-known hilltop town which dominates the horizon as you approach from the main road. It is surrounded by vineyards and cypress trees and is sometimes referred to as “Green Tuscany”. Motovun was originally a fortress city and dates back to the 13th and 14th centuries. It is the prettiest of the hilltop towns. There is a stunning view of the pastel yellow Church of St Stephen as you ascend from the lower level (through the ancient gateway), pass under a stone archway and emerge into the main town square, Trg Andrea Antico. Absolutely breathtaking! We walked the walls (a bargain at €5 per person) at 10am when it opened and it wasn’t too hot. There were 365° views over the hills, vineyards and old stone houses with red terracotta roofs tumbling down the hillside. Geoff was reeled in by a persistent sales assistant at Aura Distillery where he bought a very expensive bottle of gin which he hadn’t planned on purchasing We stopped for coffee at Boutique Hotel Kaštel and sat in the breeze on the beautiful shaded terrace under the trees opposite the Hotel. I couldn’t resist their chocolate truffles with honey and truffle (the chocolate truffles were amazing … the addition of truffle (which tasted of strong garlic was utterly horrible so the offending shaved truffle was removed and discarded … quite a bizarre combination!). The White Truffle, popular in the region, is apparently the most expensive and highly prized truffle in the world and is known for its intense aroma of garlic and cheese. It is harvested in autumn and early winter in the damp, shaded Motovun Forest near the Mirna River. We loved Motovun but not their famous truffle!
c. Grožnjan is a neighboring hilltop village about 20 minutes drive from Motovun which dates back to the Middle Ages. Once a Venetian fortress and an important regional centre, today it is a hub for artists, artisans and musicians. There are historic stone houses and winding, romantic alleyways to wander in the medieval old town. The beautiful town Loggia decorated with stone tubs of red geraniums dates from 1597. The artist and sculptor Aleksandar Rukavina facilitated the preservation and restoration of the buildings and today there is also a well-known local art festival and jazz festival held over summer. it is very pretty, less polished and more rustic than Motovun and well worth a side-trip.
d. Oprtalj lies in the central northern part of Istria, somewhat off the beaten-path, across the Mirna river valley from the village of Motovun. It is very quaint and small (smaller again than even arty Grožnjan) and used to be a fort surrounded by defensive walls. There is a very pretty red-painted 16th century Venetian Loggia opposite the town gate. When we visited there was a wedding party inside the red-painted Loggia opposite the arched town gate. The ceremony was taking place in beautiful St. George’s church (built in 1526) which is located in the heart of tiny Oprtalj. Opposite the church is a striking bell tower constructed in 1749 which rises 88 feet (27 meters) above the town. Oprtalj is also known for its abandoned buildings which gave an added dimension to the unusual village. We stopped for lunch at Konoba Oprtalj and sat in the shade of the giant horse chestnut trees on the terrace overlooking the surrounding hills and vineyards. The view was considerably better than the food which was distinctly touristy and pedestrian.
e. The Kamenjak Peninsula is a protected national park located in the southernmost part of Istria, south of Pula. There is an entrance fee of €18 per vehicle which is well worth it! The peninsula is characterized by scenic white pebble and rock beaches dotted along the rugged coast. You can drive in or walk, hike the trails or cycle. Any mode of transport other than by car would have been grueling in the blazing sun. The roadways are pitted, dirt tracks and the air is so thick with dust churned up by vehicles heading to the various parking lots that the surrounding vegetation is grey. I can’t imagine anything worse than cycling or hiking in those conditions!
The numerous picturesque beaches of Cape Kamenjak are considered among the best in Croatia – a country known for its pebble and stone beaches and rocky coves, rather than for stretches of sand. We drove an hour from Central Istria for the morning at the beaches arriving bright and early at 8:15am – this was to beat the crowds and the intense heat of July. We made a beeline for one of the prettiest coves – Plovanije Beach on the western side of the peninsula which I thought was quite breathtaking – especially since we were the only people there so early in the morning! It is a small but beautiful pebble cove with the incredible colors we have become accustomed to in Croatia. It is backed by pine forest surrounding the cove. It was a 5 minute walk to reach the cove along the narrow, dirt footpath and the beach itself is accessed by either scrambling down steep rocks or follow the pathway a short distance behind the beach and back-track along a narrow track which ascends more gently to the pebbles. Radovica Beach, also surrounded by rocks and pine forest, is a 5 minute drive from Plovanije. It is also small, secluded and very pretty with a smooth pebble entrance once you’ve clambered and scrambled down the rugged, rock face! Swimming in the crystal-clear glassy waters was incredible. Loved it! We stopped for coffee and snacks (which was better than anticipated!) at quirky Safari Bar in Kamenjak, a pretty cool jungle-style bar at the end of the cape with rustic tables and benches under bamboo shade. It overlooks the famous cliff jumping rocks at Cape Kamenjak on Mala Kolombarica beach. There are huge, bright white cliffs here – it was very striking! Our final stop was at Njive beach which is very small and was very busy by midday. We swam there to cool off but didn’t hang around as it was wall-to-wall umbrellas and noisy kids. There is plenty of shade under the trees close to the pebble beach and there are lots of rocks for rock jumping. Nice but not our favorite! The advantage (unlike the other beaches we visited in the peninsula is that you can park up next to the Beach Bar Njive overlooking the water – so no hot, dusty, trek through the undergrowth to get to the water which is a major consideration in 95°F (35°C)!
f. Pula, the capital of the region, is decidedly unimpressive and quite unappealing as you approach it from the main road. Thankfully, we were only there to visit the famous oval-shaped Roman Arena Amphitheater, which was quite stunning. It is a popular venue for concerts and performances and when we visited staff were dismantling a huge stage from the centre of the Arena. It is the sixth largest Roman amphitheater in the world and the largest most well-preserved in the world (with all four sides of its limestone walls intact). Its construction began during the rule of Emperor Augustus in the 1st century AD and records show it was expanded and completed during the reign of the Flavian dynasty. At the time of its construction, Pula (then called Pietas Iulia) was the centre of Roman rule in this part of the Empire. During Roman times, it would have held up to 23,000 spectators for gladiatorial fights and events. In the 5th century, when gladiatorial fights were banned, it became a cattle market and by the 13th century it was raided by locals for its building materials. In the 19th century the restoration of the Arena finally began. The Arena stands just over 105 feet high (32 meters) covering an area of 433 feet (132 meters) wide and 345 feet (105 meters) deep. The side of the amphitheater closest to the Adriatic Sea has three visible stories whilst the other three sides have two because the Arena is built on a hill with a gradual natural slope. The two lower stories contain 72 arches whilst the top story is made up of 67 square windows with a cornice feature on top. There are four rectangular towers set within the walls which originally contained water reservoirs. Below the main Arena floor is a series of chambers used for storing animals and passageways to lead them and the gladiators up to the Arena. These chambers now house an exhibition of equipment used for the production and storage of olive oil. After leaving the Arena we went in search of coffee but Pula itself didn’t appeal at all and we found ourselves a few miles outside of the city in a very cute coffee shop run by an Italian and his wife which specialized in dozens of different types of coffee. Very cute garden and Geoff was happy because he found the resident cat to stroke So, if you’re in the area, and you want the best coffee in Istria outside of Rovinj, look for BORA NERA Specialty Coffee in Vodnjan!
g. Poreč – we really didn’t like it much at all! The old town (such as it is!) was rather more functional-looking than anywhere else we have visited in Croatia. There’s barely a decent coffee shop in town (the location of Eis Caffe was pretty enough in the shadow of what looked like a historic stone tower) but the waterfront is the least attractive we’ve seen in our time exploring Croatia. There is a 6th-century Euphrasian Basilica complex which is famous for its gem-studded Byzantine mosaics which we probably should have seen but after wandering the old town and finding little to attract us, we lost interest pretty quickly and went in search of a decent beach for a swim. This also turned out to be an entirely fruitless pursuit since every option we followed on google maps led us to the entrance to a sprawling family resort hotel … So, whether or not you can actually access any of the local beaches without entering a campground or a 3* star hotel ground, I have no idea but we gave up on that too and headed back to the villa instead! Not our most successful day!
Overall, we spent roughly 6 weeks in Croatia (either side of Bosnia, Montenegro and Slovenia) and we loved every minute! It’s a fantastic country – super clean (with a few exceptions), the locals are extremely friendly, it has some spectacularly beautiful coastline, and a handful of pretty islands with cute medieval towns and villages. Between mid-May, June and July it was pretty much wall-to-wall sunshine but the sweet spot for avoiding crowds and the worst of the summer heat is mid-May to mid-June when it’s warm enough to swim in the sea but you don’t melt into the sidewalk when you get out of it
Love Croatia! 💕
Categories: Activities, Balkans, Bol, Brac, Cavtat, Croatia, Dolac, Dubrovnik, Europe, Groznjan, Hiking, Hvar, Hvar Town, Istrian Peninsula, Mlini, Motovun, Oprtalj, Porec, Postira, Primosten, Pula, Pučišća, Rovinj, Splitska, Stari Grad, Suduraj, Supetar, Sveti Petar u Šumi, Travel, Trogir, Šipanska Luka